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Since the 1990s, fast fashion has enabled everyday people to purchase the latest catwalk trends. But huge amounts of clothing are being recycled, sold and soon thrown away, contributing to the global sustainability crisis. Now, when the fashion industry should wake up and break free from this vicious cycle, it is going in the opposite direction. We are moving downwards from fast fashion to ultra-fast fashion. The amount of natural resources consumed and waste produced is very high.
Ultra-fast fashion is marked by even faster production cycles, trends that will fade away in the blink of an eye, and poor labor practices. Brands like Shein, Boohoo and Cider are free from the concept of seasonal collections. Instead they’re producing apparel at breakneck speed and self-generated microtrends like balletcore, barbiecore, and even mermaidcore. Additionally, there is limited transparency or accountability in clothing supply chains. (Also read: Bow Fashion 101: From Deepika Padukone to Priyanka Chopra, 5 Bollywood divas who mastered this viral fashion trend ,
Excessive production and consumption of clothing cannot be allowed to continue. Without changes, industry will account for 26% of the world’s carbon budget to limit global warming to 2 degrees Celsius by 2050. The fashion industry needs to take responsibility for its actions. Policymakers also have an important role to play in enabling the necessary transition towards a more responsible and circular fashion economy. And let’s not forget the power of consumers.
Cheap clothes at what price?
It was once thought that the pandemic would accelerate the transition to a more sustainable fashion industry. Unfortunately, in reality the industry is getting worse, not better. Most ultra-fast fashion brands emerged in the late 2010s, followed by the most famous, Shein, which was founded in 2008. These online, direct-to-consumer brands exploded in popularity during the lockdown, with Shein taking the title of the world’s most popular brand. 2020.
Established brands like Gap introduce 12,000 new items per year and H&M 25,000. But Sheen left them in the dust, listing 1.3 million items in the same amount of time. How is this even possible? The ultra-fast fashion model thrives on data and addictive social media marketing to create insatiable consumer demand.
But Shein’s incredibly low prices (there are thousands of items under A$5 on its website) come at a human cost. The company’s own 2021 Sustainability and Social Impact Report (later removed from the site) found that only 2% of its factories and warehouses met its worker safety standards, with the rest requiring corrective action.
The brand has also ditched in-house designers. Instead it works with independent suppliers who can design and manufacture a garment in two weeks. The result is an incredibly profitable business model. Shein filed for an initial public offering (IPO) last year, valuing the brand at US$136 billion, up from US$2.5 billion in 2018.
The shift from fast to ultra-fast fashion has serious environmental and social consequences. This includes even more exploitative labor practices. Shein Apparel workers reportedly work 75 hours a week and the warehouse operates 24/7. Ignoring this change isn’t just a fashion mistake. Doing so jeopardizes national efforts for a more sustainable fashion industry.
A seamless transition towards sustainability
The Australian Fashion Council is leading a national product stewardship plan called Seamless that promises to transform the fashion industry by 2030. The idea is to bring fashion into the circular economy. Ultimately this means zero waste, but in the meantime raw materials will be kept in the supply chain for as long as possible by designing and minimizing waste.
Members will contribute a four per cent levy for each article of clothing they produce or import. These funds go towards textile collection, research, recycling projects and education campaigns. Big W, David Jones, Lorna Jane, Rip Curl, RM Williams, The Iconic, Susan Group and Cotton On are members of the Seamless Foundation. Each has contributed A$100,000 to the development of the plan.
As one of the world’s first industry-led collective product stewardship initiatives for clothing textiles, Seamless presents a unique opportunity to drive change towards a more sustainable and circular fashion industry.
But there is a risk that ultra-fast fashion brands could act as freeriders in seamless, profiting from investments and initiatives without making a meaningful contribution. Sheen and others will continue to bring more and more products to market, which will need to be dealt with at the end of its short life. But if they fail to commit to the plan, they won’t be the ones paying for it.
The government-funded consortium should also recognize ultra-fast fashion as a way to address the environmental and social sustainability challenges of the industry. At the moment they are only talking about fast fashion and ignoring the rise of ultra-fast fashion. For example, their global scan includes discussion of fast fashion and no mention of ultra-fast fashion.
It also points to a widespread lack of data in the industry but in the case of Seamless, it could have a major impact if this growing market segment is ignored. With customers from all walks of life, Sheen and Teemu are projected to generate combined sales of $2 billion in 2024.
critical action
Some brands are actively engaged and working towards a more sustainable future. But others, like Teemu, are learning from Sheen and looking to emulate his business model. The transition to a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry requires a greater understanding of ultra-fast fashion, immediate systemic change and collective efforts.
The Institute for Sustainable Futures, where I work, is a founding member of an international academic research network that aims to tackle the complexities of ultra-fast fashion. It also covers how ultra-fast fashion is impacting the livelihoods of textile workers, how it is leading to textile waste and highlights the industry’s struggle to adopt circular economy principles. We are also examining how to reshape consumer behaviour, driven by social media, towards more sustainable consumption, particularly among Gen-Z consumers.
Last month, federal Environment Minister Tanya Plibersek announced possible intervention, perhaps by imposing minimum environmental standards or a levy on clothing by July.
The clock is ticking. Now is the time to lay the foundation for a more sustainable and just fashion industry. Australia has a rich fashion history and is home to many major local brands – many of which have gone global. These brands show us what’s possible when good design, sustainability and innovation drive an industry forward.
Ultimately, our collective choices hold immense power. By understanding the consequences of our fashion habits and advocating for change, we can all be catalysts for a more sustainable and just fashion industry.
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