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Beyond the ‘Myth’ of Egypt, the thick hardback encyclopaedia or Revealed by Stephen Sommers Mother According to the French (a dummy guide to Egypt, if you will), the heart of this Nile country lies in its souks or bazaars. Today, when foreigners walk through its bustling bazaars, as they did many centuries ago, their eyes rush to collect the mirages of antiques and furnishings spread across the network of winding streets. Among such foreigners, the number of Indian travellers is growing significantly. According to the 2024 report of Atlis (an online visa application portal), 60% of single outbound visa applications and 30% of group tour visa applications from India were for Cairo. Moreover, the cross-cultural interests seem to be mutual. While Bollywood has always been popular in Egypt, Shah Rukh-Kajol is blamed for dancing next to the pyramids Suraj Hua Maddham ,KKKG, 2001), singer Abhijeet Bhattacharya recently had a bizarre moment of fame after he went viral as an alleged lookalike of former Egyptian president Hosni Mubarak. However, what may seem strange is commonplace in the souks. These markets aren’t just shopping centers; they’re important cultural experiences. Here’s a look at Egypt’s most famous souk, Khan el-Khalili, and some of Cairo’s other must-visit markets.
Call of Khan-al-Khalili
For those suffering from low self-esteem, a stroll through the narrow lanes of Khan el-Khalili is enough to make you feel like an icon. Experienced salesmen focus on the nationality of the traveller and make a comment to get their attention. For Frenchmen, a sprinkle of Bonjour along with plain English usually does the trick. But if you are Indian, be prepared for “Kareena Kapoor!” and “Aishwarya Rai!” as if you are walking down the runway to cheers from friends.
Located next to the Al-Hussein Mosque, Khan el-Khalili is one of the world’s most famous souks. A 15th-century merchant once described it as “a magnificent palace where the most respected merchants from the Indies and Persia flocked.” Having survived Napoleon’s invasion, this bazaar remains a bustling place where you can find carpets, perfumes and lanterns just like in the 14th century. Alongside these traditional goods, there are also a wide variety of unique items – from old trophies and wedding photos to broken clocks, old flyers and even Pharaonic statues that may have been taken straight from the tombs. Telling whether these items are real antiques or cleverly made replicas remains a challenge.
“You know the real deal,” the modern-day merchant flattered me when I picked up a statue of Sekhmet, the lion-headed goddess whose myth is very similar to that of Kali. By placing it on a light bulb, he proved it was made of ‘real’ Egyptian alabaster, which has a translucent quality. As we chatted, I couldn’t help but be surprised at how much like a historian or museum guide he sounded. We stood in his shop, located in a back alley, across from a domed arch from the Mamluk period, as he talked about long-dead kings and the statues they left behind. Although long buried, I felt the presence of a bygone era, as, around sunset, several cats sat outside his shop near statues of Bastet, Egypt’s famous cat goddess.
The Underground Bookstore of Coptic Cairo
The site of the Babylonian fortress in Roman Egypt and allegedly the temporary residence of the Holy Family, Coptic Cairo is a fascinating blend of Christian and Islamic architecture dating back to 525 BC. Nestled between tomb-like medieval churches and synagogues, underground Coptic Cairo’s book street, known as Harith al Kidess Girgis or the Street of St George, winds through narrow sunken alleys where sweaty tourists sit sipping their lemonade. While the Al-Azbakiyya book market is a hotspot for book lovers in Cairo, there’s something special about shopping for books after a day spent marveling at the frescoes of saints and angels, especially in the chancel of the Church of St Sergius and Bacchus (Abu Serga). While many of these churches have their own small collections of old manuscripts, these are not usually open to the public. Beyond these, however, the Coptic Cairo Bookstore functions almost like an open library and has a wide selection in many languages. Organized by genre, the range is fascinating, from New York Times bestsellers and history to children’s hieroglyphic-themed coloring books. Apart from books, you can also explore shops that sell unique artworks.
Friday at the Necropolis
Long in the spotlight in ‘scary’ video logs and documentaries that observe the situation of the (financially struggling) living who have moved in with the dead, the City of the Dead or Cairo’s Necropolis, located in the Mokattam Hills, hosts one of the most (infamous) flea markets on Fridays. Not for the faint-hearted, especially if you despise animal cruelty, the vendors have only one agenda in mind – to sell anything and everything, whether functional or not, at the best price. “Bargaining is a national sport in Egypt,” my guide told me, and apparently, the initial quoted price and the final price often vary by continent. If you plan on being economical in this market, you might want to wear simple clothes.
A Look at the Arabian Nights
As I arrived at Sphinx International Airport to fly back to India, a red desert moon was hanging over the horizon. The wind picked up speed, and the next moment an impossible event occurred – it started to rain. Contrary to popular belief, it does rain in the Middle East. On my connecting flight to Kuwait (I opted for Jazeera Airways), Egypt was awash in dense yellow light. Covered in dust and rain, it was a glowing hue of gold tinged with orange. At that moment, I couldn’t help but imagine that I was looking at a pre-modern Egypt, with lamp-lit merchant bazaars and gaily-clad inns frequented by famous dancers. But as we left the glitter of civilisation behind,
Information:
Best months to visit: The months from October to April are considered the best to visit Egypt
how to travel: Several direct and indirect flights connect Delhi to Cairo and Giza.
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