Milan Fashion Week: Gucci shines with Sabato di Sarno’s second womenswear collection; Versace delivers punk energy

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On Friday, the third day of Fashion Week, the fashion crowd braved rain, traffic and a local transport strike for the umpteenth time in Milan in the name of the next big trend. By noon, the shows were running a full hour late because the fleet of black sedans, shuttles and taxis could not keep up with runway speed. Donatella Versace got the world back on track by starting her evening show on time. (Also read | The Devil Wears Prada reunion at the SAG Awards: Anne Hathaway-Emily Blunt rock low-neck gowns with Meryl Streep. what they wore,

Models showcased the fall-winter 2024-25 collections of Gucci, Versace and Sunni at Milan Fashion Week.  (AP, Reuters)
Models showcased the fall-winter 2024-25 collections of Gucci, Versace and Sunni at Milan Fashion Week. (AP, Reuters)

Here are some highlights from Friday’s show of the mostly womenswear preview for Fall-Winter 2024-25.

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gucci sparkles

Sabato de Sarno added a little sparkle to his second Gucci womenswear collection as he continued to create new codes for the fashion house. Apparently simple silhouettes like a belted coat, an apron romper and deep neck-line tunic exude sensuality and power, showing a bit of leg and the season’s new riding boot that rises slightly above the knee.

Long outerwear, worn over short-shorts and simple corsets, is decorated with sequins and crystal beading that give an ombre effect, and confidently transforms into sequin shifts and halter cocktail dresses, diaphanous slip dresses and cozy knitwear. Are.

The no-pants look highlights the simplicity of mini peacoats, bombers and knitwear, as well as the season’s footwear, including platform versions of the signature loafers. The new Gucci Oxblood Red incorporated a bold color palette of navy, mustard, olive green and eggplant. He looked most charming in a billowing oxblood-and-black intarsia leather jacket.

The collection didn’t just scream Gucci with logos and familiar motifs; In the show notes it is described as “a staging of small subversive acts”.

De Sarno promised details that could be experienced when worn – such as the hidden buttoning on the back of the coats “that turns them into an embrace – or only seen up close, such as a geometric hidden in the jacquard.” Heron.”

In the final look, a deep slit in a long wool sheath allowed a model to step forward – just like De Sarno.

Kirsten Dunst, Julia Garner and Solange Knowles took front row seats with DeSarno’s parents, who were the first to stand and receive a standing ovation.

versace punk rocks

Punk energy permeated the Versace runway, from the pulsating music to the nostalgic black and red checks to the spiky hairstyles.

Donatella Versace kept the pulse high with deep, open slits on long clinging dresses, mod high-neck mini dresses and animal print bodysuits worn with matching tights. The collection offered a contemporary take on menswear, featuring complementary looks in leather, tweed and leather for him and her.

Versace favorite Gigi Hadid walked the show wearing a fitted navy midi dress and a sheer blouse with a sweetheart neckline.

Sunni’s thoughts

Sunni had no soundtrack for his runway shows: only the models’ interior monologues playing over the sound system as they crossed custom carpets in the designer’s trademark stripes.

Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina’s last collection included puffer coats covered in golden glitter, soft knits, octopus-shaped hoods and oversized denim combos, cut from carpets produced at the show’s venue by CC-Tapis design company Transformed into look. The models thought about their next plate of pasta, distracted themselves from the itch of timelessness, and marveled at fashion sense between the wars.

In a final sign of support, Gucci creative director Sabato de Sarno made a crosstown dash after taking a backstage bow at his collection to take a front row seat at the Sunnie show.

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