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New Delhi: Renowned designer JJ Valaya says it is his duty to preserve the beauty of a bygone era and present it in a new avatar as an “excavator of the past”.
Valaya showcased modernity, royalty and grandeur in his latest collection “Murakka”, which he presented on the fourth day of the Hyundai FDCI India Couture Week here.
The new clothing range from her label The House of Valaya is inspired by three cities of historical significance: Istanbul in Turkey, Isfahan in Iran, and Delhi.
“I feel it is my duty… as an excavator of the past. I go back in time and find all the beauty and bring it out, make it relevant for today and then present it in a completely new way. Otherwise, it will get lost,” Valaya told PTI on the sidelines of the ongoing fashion gala.
Through the festive collection of “Murakka”, which was dominated by exclusively woven silk and velvet fabrics, the Delhi-based designer stayed true to his USP: luxury.
“Everything that is rich and luxurious. We are a luxury brand. It’s the festive season, it’s a celebratory wear. So, it’s all about rich velvets, silks and everything you can think of which is really luxury,” he added.
The range of colours included green, beige, brown to maroon and even shades of gold and black. Men’s wear included evening jackets, sherwanis, Nehru jackets and bandhgala jackets, while women’s wear included lehengas, saris, anarkalis and suits.
Some of the male models wore turbans to complement their attire and the female models wore nose rings to complete their look. The outfits also saw bold appliqué designs, polka dots and geometric shapes with embroidery.
For one of the most sought-after Indian fashion designers in the international fashion world, Valaya, who is known for maximalism, fashion is style.
“I always say one thing. Fads and gimmicks are not fashion. Something that is timeless and durable… something that stands the test of time. I consider that to be fashion. Fashion means style.”
In their latest collection, the Istanbul theme is inspired by Ottoman intricacies and Art Deco lines, while Isfahan reinterprets Persian carpets and miniature paintings with a contemporary twist. Delhi celebrates Mughal inlay work with flora and fauna motifs.
He picked up “beautiful nuances” from all three cities and incorporated them into a new modern collection.
Vallaya described the collection as a blend of “royalty, emotion and art”.
From the initial idea to the final look, this consummate fashion designer details her process of bringing designs to life.
“You get the idea in your mind and then you research. I am a big believer in research. In fact, I spend several weeks collecting data. I also try to visit those places and then make mood boards.
“After that we have a brainstorming session, then the first sketch is made, then the first mark is made, then the development of the print, weaving of the fabric etc. Everything comes together to create a beautiful collection,” he added.
Asked who he considers the most stylish personality, the designer said while it was hard to name one, American fashion icon Iris Apfel, who died in March at the age of 102, had a great sense of style.
“If we go back in time, not too far back, Iris Apfel. She was an American diva, she passed away after living for over 100 years… the way she put it all together was brilliant.”
Valya is already working on his next collection.
“I’ve thoroughly enjoyed everything I’ve done these 33 years … all I would say is I’m blessed.”
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