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Bubble wrap, balaclavas and puffy jackets were the main attractions at the Helmut Lang show that kicked off New York Fashion Week on Friday. Vietnamese-American designer Peter Do said after the show, “I feel like I’m living in New York, a lot can happen in a day. So I feel like I want to provide you with a tool so that you can Be prepared for anything.” (Also read | New York Fashion Week: Pregnant models, a mother with a baby, and a trans physically disabled model rule the Colina Strada show,
An in-demand designer who also heads her own line, Do was tasked with re-inventing Helmut Lang’s chic and minimalist aesthetic that dominated fashion in the 1990s and 2000s before the Austrian designer left. Was shaped.
The brand is now owned by Japanese giant Fast Retailing, which also owns Uniqlo.
Under the dome of a former bank in Brooklyn’s trendy Williamsburg, Du revisited the inventions of his artistic ancestors, including colorful bubble wrap made of silk worn as pants and jackets.
Oversized wool coats, quilted jackets, turtlenecks, hoods, balaclavas reinforced the “protection and projection” themes of the collection.
Some were inspired by space suits, while the color palette reflected the bright, almost fluorescent orange of yesteryear.
“I just want to see the street represented,” Du said.
With a dozen shows a day by midweek, the Big Apple ushered in the autumn-winter 2024 ready-to-wear fashion week ahead of London, then Milan and Paris.
Testament to Lange’s influence is that the schedule changed in the late 90s when he decided to leave Paris and move to New York, so that the American megacity came first.
A number of veteran and renowned American ready-to-wear designers are expected this season, including Tommy Hilfiger on Friday, followed by Michael Kors, Thom Browne and Tory Burch.
Carolina Herrera and Gabriela Hearst are also in the calendar.
Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a proponent of intimate, androgynous designs, will also make a rare detour to New York with a show on Sunday evening.
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