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PARIS — Kim Jones’s stunning collection for Dior was the fruit of a meeting with ceramicist Hilton Nell, whose pottery and ceramics, including animal motifs, gave the Parisian powerhouse’s spring collection a fun, artistic and homely look.
Here are some highlights from Friday’s Spring 2025 menswear collection:
On a drizzly day, Demi Moore arrived with a chihuahua named Pilaf and when asked whether she preferred dogs or cats, she replied, “Isn’t it obvious?” Like the Hollywood actress, the decor on Dior’s runway inside the stately grounds of the Left Bank’s opulent 17th-century Val-de-Grâce was witty. It included ceramic sculptures depicting reclining nude cats and cheeky dogs, inspired by Nell and the Dior designer’s own collection of trinkets.
Jones’ artistic references are no surprise. Known for his historical and cultural inspirations, Jones has previously worked on his uncle’s photographs of Rudolf Nureyev and TS Eliot’s “The Waste Land.” This collection continues his tradition, bringing Nell’s whimsical ceramics to life.
Moody, bird motifs on black tailored jackets and gender-fluid cloche hats opened the show, with the model holding a reclining nude cat. Sketch-like animal motifs then made their way throughout the show. Loose, boxy proportions on car coats and skorts felt airy and defined the spring silhouettes of designs that channeled the muted pastels of glazed ceramics. A modestly pearled neck accessory — a sort of strappy hooded collar — was a standout that seemed simultaneously historic and fashion-forward, a signature of the British designer.
Jones’ innovative tailoring shone as always. Springy coats that seemed soft and feminine were given a full stop in the form of black leather boots, one of many plays of contrast. This juxtaposition of delicate and strong elements is a hallmark of Jones’ designs. However, this season seemed more like a variation on a theme for the couturier, rather than something radically new.
Still, as always, the celebrities in the front row — including Moore, Robert Pattinson, Kate Moss, Pharrell Williams, as well as Tomorrow X Together’s Taehyun, Soobin, Huening Kai and Yeonjun — brought a special kind of energy.
An urban patchwork suit in black, with frayed edges but a clear silhouette, opened Junya Watanabe’s latest menswear show, setting the stage for a focused and daring theme. The Japanese designer, known for his avant-garde creations and distinctive aesthetics, pushed the boundaries once again.
Bow ties poked out on the red carpet runway over a red carpet-ready white tuxedo shirt. But this was no ordinary awards ceremony attire – an earring here, a frayed hem there. This was red carpet season’s answer to punk. Tuxedo pants suddenly transformed into distressed black jeans. Lightning-like hair, with cut-out patches of tartan and slashed inserts, evoked Tim Burton’s Edward Scissorhands vibes.
Known for his progressive style and deconstruction, Watanabe continues to blend historical references with modern subcultures.
The collection also reflects Watanabe’s penchant for collaboration, reminiscent of her partnerships with brands such as Levi’s and Carhartt. The blend of high fashion with utilitarian elements added depth to the pieces, making them extremely dramatic. Ready for the spotlight.
Strappy box sandals paired with coats with loose proportions and rounded shoulders gave a Far Eastern feel to the debut of Hed Maner’s spring collection. The show reflected Israeli designer Maner’s uncanny ability to find freedom amid constraints. Cross-over silhouettes in silky linen tops and jackets, with samurai-like utilitarian details on belt fastenings and waist straps, completed the Asian theme. The wide, boxy and oversized had a sweeping aesthetic in a stunningly spacious display.
Menor is known for his conceptual approach to shape. Oversized gloves and neat, raised box-like white pockets, which look like fencing attire, gave the collection an aggressive look.
Menor’s designs often subvert classic garments and balance tradition with modernity. Samurai-like details and utilitarian elements reflect his knack for reinterpretation. Cross-over silhouettes and belt fastenings are reminiscent of historical costume, yet firmly rooted in the contemporary.
Silky linens and other natural fibers were manipulated to create structured but fluid shapes. Oversized gloves, which could have been used to handle toxic chemicals, added a utilitarian aspect to the show.
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