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While the fashion industry discusses size diversity from time to time, there was little evidence of real evolution on the Milan runways this season. On Saturday, Paloma Elsesser walked in Ferragamo in a satin plunge-neck cocktail dress, and Dolce & Gabbana included normal-sized models. But the thinness of some models was a topic of discussion before the show.
Ashley Graham, who recently sat front row at Dolce & Gabbana’s September show, lamented how often she is the only large model on the runway. Some highlights from the fourth day of Milan Fashion Week, mostly womenswear previews for fall-winter 2024-25.
free spirit of ferragamo
Maximilian Davis’s Ferragamo collection both hides and reveals, with oversized masculine wool overcoats covering dresses with intricate, sheer embroidery. There is freedom to choose who sees what. In his third winter season at the Florence-based family-run fashion house, the designer took inspiration from the 1920s Prohibition era, when the American liquor ban drove revelers underground.
“People were using clothes to hide whatever they were doing, in a big celebration of freedom,” Davis said backstage. “He was going to give a speech and he didn’t want (anyone) to see what he was wearing.”
Woolen coats have broad shoulders and a masculine silhouette in the style of Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo. Below, dresses of scalloped sequins and draped fringes are reminiscent of the flapper look with contemporary discipline. The pant-less look was paired with wool tights for full-coverage, while hip boots lifted up the hemline of a knit mini-dress. Footwear consisted of high-heeled shoes completely hidden under a flurry of feathers.
Davis covered men head to toe in leather, from thigh-high fisherman boots to gloves, or freed them to show a leg in flat-pocket shorts paired with thick-cut knitwear. “People need to let go, and just be free,” he said, as Ferragamo declared “the era of liberation.”
dolce and gabbana formal sensuality
Eva Mendes and Ashley Graham wowed in the front row of Dolce & Gabbana — the actor wore a leopard coat over leather, a dazzling neckline with a lariat necklace with matching dangling earrings, and the model in a white tuxedo jacket and black The tuxedo with trousers was reflective of the runway. ,
On the runway, the collection oozed sensuality, as designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana combined tuxedo tailoring with their lingerie skills to create looks that were more or less sexy, adjusting the temperature up or down. With a range of clothes.
A cropped tuxedo jacket revealed a lacy bra, while a sheer sarong skirt tied in a satin bow revealed lace panties. Most looks are completed with stiletto heels and a mesh beret. More modestly, full tuxedos were being fitted with cigarette trousers or short shorts and cropped jackets that allowed for look-a-boo moments. The collection was all black, with some liquid gold and silver moments.
Naomi Campbell closed the show wearing a layered lace bra, front-slit sarong and fetish leather gloves, and showed off a slight wiggle as she walked down the runway to the delight of the fashion crowd.
Bottega Veneta’s message of hope
Matthew Blazey said he wanted to send a message about hope in difficult times in his latest Bottega Veneta collection. The designer removed artistry from the clothes and focused on textiles and volume to create “a monument from the everyday”.
The result was a series of optical illusions. The shoulders of the overcoat defined the essential figure with an arch. Fabrics in graffiti-like prints – which Blazey called memory prints for the layers of information – fell into sculptural bias levels. The brand’s trademark intresio was encoded into a garment – the decoration itself.
The essence of the collection lies in the final three looks: yellow thread-textured dresses to represent fire and black dresses to represent coal, separated by a gray woolen coat, representing ashes. For Blazey, they express resilience in a world filled with grief. The flowering glass cacti that decorated the showroom were another expression of that hope.
“When you walk through the desert after a fire, you see these incredible flowers. For us, it was the idea of hope,” he said. “In the end it’s about hope.”
bally refined
Gucci alumnus Simone Bellotti’s second collection for Swiss fashion house Bailey adds youthful glow to the everyday wardrobe. The Loden coats in several iterations take the collection firmly into alpine territory, but reveal a furry layer for the urban edge with modern silhouettes and details like swept-up hemlines, bringing the 170-year brand heritage to a new generation. Connects to.
The office look gets a youthful twist with a V-shaped high-waisted skirt; The leather skirt and bag are attractively studded with silver charms. The light blue leather dress curves elegantly at the waist. Bellotti continues to connect with Swiss culture, decorating clothing and accessories with mini cowbells that jingle lightly to create an almost Tibetan Zen mood.
Ferrari boosted performance
Ferrari creative director Rocco Iannone used the latest textile technology to create a look that begins to reflect the automotive world.
The surfaces of the clothes are shiny, almost polished. The organza appears to mimic a freshly painted car. Denim was treated with resin to capture light. Three iterations of the silver robe were made by mixing gold with the metal. The silhouettes tend toward formal, including full or bias-cut skirts with knitwear or leather jackets with peplum paired with trousers for that; Long trench or double breasted suit for that.
“For me Ferrari represents the constant tension between fine tailoring and haute couture in technology, performance and research and partnership,” Iannone said backstage.
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